Skip to content
A narrow Golden Gai lane at night, lit bar signs stacked on both sides and a lamp hanging over the middle
Golden Gai at night, September 2013. Stephen Kelly from San Francisco, CA, USA · CC BY 2.0

深夜食堂 · MBS and TBS from 2009 · Netflix 2016 and 2019 · open midnight to seven

Midnight Diner Tokyo Stories

0 of 5 panels lifted. Lift one to look under the noren.

?Anything else

0:00to7:00

Joe Odagiri in a dark jacket with swept-back hair, holding a microphone
Joe Odagiri, who plays Kogure, at the Tokyo International Film Festival, October 2015. Dick Thomas Johnson from Tokyo, Japan · CC BY 2.0

Four plaques, the whole menu. Tap one, or the blank one for anything else.

Where the noren comes from

The menu has four lines · everything else is a request

Anything,
if I have the makings.

That is the Master’s rule. The menu on the wall is a pork miso soup set, beer, sake and shochu; ask for anything else and he will make it if he can. Each of the ten episodes of 2009 is named after what somebody asked for. Take the orders, pick the makings off the shelf, and hang a plaque for each one you serve.

豚汁定食ビール酒焼酎

Night 1 · 2009

赤いウインナー

“Red sausages and a rolled omelette, please.”

0 of 10 nights served. Night 1 asks for red sausages and a rolled omelette.

The shelf and the recipes are ours: the series names the dish, not the makings. The photographs show each dish as it is made anywhere, not as the series made it.

Where we read it

Where the street came from

Six rows,
five seats.

Harada built Meshiya’s street from the drinking lanes of Shinjuku and Shibuya he remembered from his own younger nights. These are the real ones. The counters are as small as the Master’s.

A dark Golden Gai lane in 2009, a street-name pole on the left and small lit bars running away into the distance
Golden Gai in July 2009, three months before the first series went out. urbzoo · CC BY 2.0

Shinjuku Golden Gai

1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku, Tokyo · photograph 2009

Around 280 bars fit into six tight rows of alleys, which have kept their early-1950s look while the rest of Shinjuku was rebuilt. For the diner’s T-junction, art director Mitsuo Harada and director Jōji Matsuoka walked the Golden Gai area together; a police box on the set came out of that walk. When Crank In! visited the set in 2016, its headline said Golden Gai had been rebuilt inside a 300-tsubo warehouse. It is five minutes on foot from the east exit of Shinjuku Station, next to Kabukichō.

Before you push the door: the house rules.

Public lanes, free to walk. Most bars open around 8pm; some are members-only. No photographs without permission, and no drinking or smoking in the street.

Where we read it
Viator · Ad / affiliate

Golden Gai and Shinjuku night walks

Shinjuku

Live results for guided evenings in Golden Gai, Omoide Yokocho and Kabukichō. None is run by the series; check each itinerary.

Live marketplace results · itineraries change

Compare tours

Hanazono Shrine · 120 metres from Golden Gai

Before the counter,
a red tent.

An empty shrine precinct beside Golden Gai.

In the summer of 1967 Kara Jūrō’s company, the Situation Theatre (Jōkyō Gekijō), put up its first red tent in the grounds of Hanazono Shrine. Kaoru Kobayashi, the Master, came out of that company; so did Mansaku Fuwa. Fuwa plays Tadashi, one of the diner’s regulars, in the 2026 series.

As a young member of the company, Kobayashi has said on television, he once lost a part after drinking and falling asleep in a field. A fellow actor added that for about three years he had no home and slept in the tatami room at the back of an izakaya. Now he stands behind a counter, and Fuwa sits at it.

Where we read it
Men in white robes carrying banner poles through a Shinjuku street during the shrine festival
Hanazono Shrine’s festival in the streets of Shinjuku, May 2014. Guilhem Vellut from Annecy, France · CC BY 2.0

Hanazono Shrine

5-17 Shinjuku, beside Golden Gai, Tokyo

In the summer of 1967 Kara Jūrō’s company, the Situation Theatre (Jōkyō Gekijō), put up its first red tent in the grounds of Hanazono Shrine. The shrine is about ten minutes from Shinjuku Station.

A working shrine on the edge of Golden Gai, about ten minutes on foot from Shinjuku Station.

Where we read it

The 2026 series · 21 regulars announced

Pull up
a stool.

Behind the counterThe MasterKaoru Kobayashi

Tap a stool to see who sits there.

Joe Odagiri in a dark jacket with swept-back hair, holding a microphone
Joe Odagiri at the Tokyo International Film Festival, 21 October 2015, the year of the first film. Dick Thomas Johnson from Tokyo, Japan · CC BY 2.0

Joe Odagiri

Kogure

The policeman among the regulars, back for the 2026 series. This photograph is from October 2015, the year of the first film.

Kaoru Kobayashi

The Master

He calls the Master a lead who takes rather than leads, watching each story as if from a seat in the audience. He has a scar on his face and nobody knows his past; the manga’s author says he only started wondering about it when the series’ director asked, and in more than fifteen years has found no answer. We have found no free photograph of Kobayashi from any year.

Yarō Abe

The manga, from 2006

Born in Kōchi in 1963, he worked in advertising until he was 41. Midnight Diner has run in Shogakukan’s Big Comic Original since 2006 and won the Shogakukan Manga Award.

Where we read it
Tokyo Tower lit orange at night above the city
Tokyo Tower at night, January 2012. kakidai · CC BY-SA 3.0

Tokyo Tower

4-2-8 Shibakōen, Minato, Tokyo

Before Meshiya, director Jōji Matsuoka had worked with Kaoru Kobayashi on Tokyo Tower. The tower was built in 1958 and is 333 metres tall.

Open daily 9am to 11pm, last entry 30 minutes before closing; general admission ¥1,500.

Where we read it
Tokyo Tower

Tokyo Tower

Shibakōen, Minato · Daily 9am–11pm, last entry 10.30pm · general admission ¥1,500

The tower of Jōji Matsuoka and Kaoru Kobayashi’s film before Meshiya.

Visiting details

Shibuya PARCO · until 8 November 2026

Sit at it
for real.

The white facade of Shibuya PARCO on a sunny day, with trees along the pavement
Shibuya PARCO, December 2019. The exhibition is on the eighth floor. 江戸村のとくぞう · CC BY-SA 4.0

Shibuya PARCO, 8th floor (Hobonichi)

15-1 Udagawachō, Shibuya, Tokyo

Until 8 November 2026, Hobonichi’s space on the eighth floor of Shibuya PARCO shows the work of food stylist Nami Iijima, from Kamome Diner (2006) to the new Midnight Diner. It has real pieces of the set: the diner’s noren and its lantern. A U-shaped counter like the diner’s is rebuilt there; it is not the set, but you can sit at it and order ochazuke, red octopus sausages and a small beer. Iijima cooks the food for the 2026 series; she also did the food for the 2019 Netflix season.

Hobonichi’s exhibition is on until 8 November 2026, 11am to 8pm, free.

Where we read it
A bowl of rice in pale tea with a small dish of pickled plum beside it
Ochazuke with a pickled plum on the side (2006). ととりん · CC BY-SA 3.0
Red sausages cut into octopus shapes on a white plate
Red sausages cut into octopuses (2025). Quercus acuta · CC BY-SA 4.0
A lacquered bowl of miso soup with pork, tofu, carrot and potato
Tonjiru, the pork miso soup at the top of the Master’s menu (2014). Kentin · CC BY-SA 4.0

1:26a.m.

The diner opens again

The new series starts on Tuesday 20 October 2026, late at night, seven years after the last one; on TBS in the Kantō region it goes out at 1.26am, after midnight, like the diner.

Seven o’clock

Gochisōsama.
Go and find a counter.

Where it is now

8 places you can visit in three areas. The Meshiya set stands in a private warehouse in Iruma: it is named here and not pinned.

Pins mark public places; private homes are named but not pinned.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: site · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. Public lanes, free to walk. Most bars open around 8pm; some are members-only. No photographs without permission, and no drinking or smoking in the street.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: site · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. A working shrine on the edge of Golden Gai, about ten minutes on foot from Shinjuku Station.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: building · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. Streets free at any hour. Kabuki Yokocho, on the second floor of Tokyu Kabukicho Tower, is open around the clock.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: site · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. Open whenever the trains run. Golden Gai is about five minutes away on foot.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: site · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. A public alley, two minutes from Shinjuku Station’s west side. Cash only in most places.

  1. A narrow Golden Gai lane at night, lit bar signs stacked on both sides and a lamp hanging over the middle
    Golden Gai at night, September 2013, between the second and third series. Stephen Kelly from San Francisco, CA, USA · CC BY 2.0

    1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku, Tokyo

    Shinjuku Golden Gai

    Around 280 bars fit into six tight rows of alleys, which have kept their early-1950s look while the rest of Shinjuku was rebuilt.

    Public lanes, free to walk. Most bars open around 8pm; some are members-only. No photographs without permission, and no drinking or smoking in the street.

    Where we read it
  2. A stone path under a red torii at night, with a lit stone lantern on the left
    The approach to Hanazono Shrine at night, October 2023. Stephen Kelly from San Francisco, CA, USA · CC BY 2.0

    5-17 Shinjuku, beside Golden Gai, Tokyo

    Hanazono Shrine

    In the summer of 1967 Kara Jūrō’s company, the Situation Theatre (Jōkyō Gekijō), put up its first red tent in the grounds of Hanazono Shrine.

    A working shrine on the edge of Golden Gai, about ten minutes on foot from Shinjuku Station.

    Where we read it
  3. The red lit arch of Kabukicho Ichibangai over a crowded street of neon signs at night
    The Kabukichō Ichibangai gate at night, June 2019, the year of the fifth series. Basile Morin · CC BY-SA 4.0

    Tokyu Kabukicho Tower, 1-29-1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku, Tokyo

    Kabukichō and Kabuki Yokocho

    Kabukichō is Shinjuku’s neon district, a maze of hotels and places to stay out late.

    Streets free at any hour. Kabuki Yokocho, on the second floor of Tokyu Kabukicho Tower, is open around the clock.

    Where we read it
  4. Crowds crossing the plaza on the east side of Shinjuku Station under big screens and shop signs
    The east side of Shinjuku Station, March 2024. RuinDig/Yuki Uchida · CC BY 4.0

    3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku, Tokyo

    Shinjuku Station, east exit

    The east side of the station is the way in to Shinjuku’s shops, food and nightlife.

    Open whenever the trains run. Golden Gai is about five minutes away on foot.

    Where we read it
  5. Diners on stools at a small counter in Omoide Yokocho, a cook working behind it under red lanterns
    A counter in Omoide Yokocho, June 2023: a cook and five or six people, which is the whole place. Dick Thomas Johnson from Tokyo, Japan · CC BY 2.0

    1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku, Tokyo

    Omoide Yokocho

    An alley of yakitori counters by the tracks, where each place seats five or six.

    A public alley, two minutes from Shinjuku Station’s west side. Cash only in most places.

    Where we read it

Stay

A room in Kabukichō.

A short walk from Golden Gai, with check-in until 2am.

Hotel Gracery Shinjuku

Hotel Gracery Shinjuku

Kabukichō 1-19-1, Shinjuku · Check-in 2pm–2am, check-out 11am · rates on the hotel’s site

In Kabukichō, a short walk from Golden Gai. Check-in runs until 2am, which suits a diner that opens at midnight.

Check rooms

Go there

Lanes, counters and the tower.

Night walks in Shinjuku, food walks through the small-counter lanes, and Tokyo Tower.

Viator · Ad / affiliate

Golden Gai and Shinjuku night walks

Shinjuku

Live results for guided evenings in Golden Gai, Omoide Yokocho and Kabukichō. None is run by the series; check each itinerary.

Live marketplace results · itineraries change

Compare tours
Viator · Ad / affiliate

Izakaya and yokocho food tours

Shinjuku and Shibuya

Live results for food walks through Tokyo’s small-counter lanes, where the seats are as few as at Meshiya.

Live marketplace results · itineraries change

Compare tours
Tokyo Tower

Tokyo Tower

Shibakōen, Minato · Daily 9am–11pm, last entry 10.30pm · general admission ¥1,500

The tower of Jōji Matsuoka and Kaoru Kobayashi’s film before Meshiya.

Visiting details

What’s on

The noren in Shibuya, the red tent in Ebisu, the diner on air.

Three dated things this autumn.

Checking current event dates…

Take it home

The manga.

Yarō Abe’s Midnight Diner, where the Master began.

Bookshop.org UK · Ad / affiliate

深夜食堂 (Midnight Diner), volume 2

Yarō Abe

The manga the series comes from, in Japanese, from Shogakukan (2009).

Find the book

Dates, prices, rooms and stock change: confirm with the provider before you travel or buy. A stay or tour is described as a filming location only where the card says so.

The order book

Every place and moment behind this page, with sources.

9 of 9 places · 8 of 8 Moments

  • Shinjuku Golden Gai

    1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku, Tokyo

    • The walk for the T-junction

      Harada and Matsuoka walk the Golden Gai area together to plan the diner’s crossroads; a police box comes out of the conversation.

  • Hanazono Shrine

    5-17 Shinjuku, beside Golden Gai, Tokyo

    • The red tent

      Kara Jūrō’s Situation Theatre puts up its first red tent at Hanazono Shrine; Kobayashi and Fuwa later come out of the company.

  • Kabukichō and Kabuki Yokocho

    Tokyu Kabukicho Tower, 1-29-1 Kabukichō, Shinjuku, Tokyo

    • Shinjuku Station, east exit

      3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku, Tokyo

      • Midnight to seven

        The diner is in Shinjuku and opens at midnight; the menu is a pork miso soup set, beer, sake and shochu, and the Master makes anything else he can.

    • Omoide Yokocho

      1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku, Tokyo

      • Lanes he remembered

        Harada builds the diner’s street from the drinking lanes of Shinjuku and Shibuya he remembers.

    • Nonbei Yokocho, Shibuya

      1-25 Shibuya, Shibuya, Tokyo

      • Shibuya’s half

        The other half of Harada’s memory: Shibuya’s drinking lanes.

    • Shibuya PARCO, 8th floor (Hobonichi)

      15-1 Udagawachō, Shibuya, Tokyo

      • The noren comes to Shibuya

        The set’s noren and lantern hang in Shibuya, over a counter where you can order ochazuke and red octopus sausages.

    • Tokyo Tower

      4-2-8 Shibakōen, Minato, Tokyo

      • Before Meshiya

        Matsuoka and Kobayashi work together on Tokyo Tower before the diner.

    • The Meshiya set, Iruma

      A warehouse in Iruma, Saitama

      • Golden Gai, indoors

        The diner’s street is built inside a 300-tsubo warehouse in Iruma.

    Privacy