7^e Arr^tRue de Verneuil5bis

Serge Gainsbourg

Jane Birkin in black and white, long hair with a fringe, looking past the camera — Jane Birkin, 1970. Unknown photographer (Pelo magazine) · Public domain

A white wall anyone may write on, in front of a house painted black inside. Gainsbourg in 1959; Jane Birkin in 1970, the year after she moved in.

3 words on the wall, each one a place on this page.

1928 to 1958

Three names.

Lucien Ginsburg

1928 · Born with a twin sister at the Hôtel-Dieu; first scales on the family piano in rue Chaptal.

A long pale stone hospital building around a courtyard under a blue sky — The courtyard of the Hôtel-Dieu on the Île de la Cité, 2012. Celette · CC BY-SA 3.0

Parvis Notre-Dame, Île de la Cité, 4th arrondissement

Hôtel-Dieu

Lucien Ginsburg was born in the Hôtel-Dieu maternity in 1928, with his twin sister Liliane.

A working hospital beside Notre-Dame. See it from the parvis and the quays.

Sources

A street of Paris apartment buildings with shopfronts and parked cars — Rue Chaptal in the 9th arrondissement, 2021: the street, not the family’s building. Chabe01 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Rue Chaptal, 9th arrondissement: a private building

The family flat, rue Chaptal

The Ginsburgs moved to rue Chaptal, where Lucien played his first scales on the family piano.

A private home. Named here, never mapped; the photograph shows the street, not the building.

Sources

A lit venue front at night with LES TROIS BAUDETS above the door — Les Trois Baudets on the boulevard de Clichy at night. sabrillena · CC BY-SA 4.0

1958 · Boulevard de Clichy

Then the stage: Les Trois Baudets

In 1958 he sang Le Poinçonneur des Lilas here, rigid with stage fright.

Jacques Canetti ran the hall as a place for new talent. Brassens, Brel and Gainsbourg all played it, and Boris Vian holds the record for appearances.

Today the concert hall is in the basement; upstairs the Mezzanine is a bar and bistro, open Wednesday to Saturday from 7pm to 2am.

A working concert hall in the basement, with a bar and bistro upstairs, the Mezzanine, open Wednesday to Saturday, 7pm to 2am.

Sources

1965 to 1968

Fifth floor.

5e · 1966
4e
3e
2e
1e

18 rue de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, 4th arrondissement

Cité internationale des arts

From February 1966 Gainsbourg lived and worked in a studio flat on the fifth floor here.

Brigitte Bardot came to see him here. After they parted he wrote Je t’aime… moi non plus; for her he had written songs including Harley Davidson and Bonnie and Clyde.

Open studios are every Wednesday from 6 to 9pm, with exhibitions in the gallery.

Artists live and work here. The public comes in for exhibitions and for open studios every Wednesday, 6 to 9pm.

Sources

Cité internationale des arts

Open studios at the Cité internationale des arts

The Marais, Paris

The building where Gainsbourg had his fifth-floor studio in 1966 opens its studios to the public every Wednesday, 6 to 9pm, with exhibitions in the gallery.

See the programme

A television frame of Serge Gainsbourg in a dark suit facing France Gall and Mario Del Monaco on a stage — Naples, 20 March 1965: Gainsbourg, France Gall and Mario Del Monaco at the Eurovision Song Contest, from the RAI broadcast. RAI · Public domain

Naples · 1965

A song for Eurovision

Poupée de cire, poupée de son, written by Gainsbourg and sung by France Gall for Luxembourg, won the 1965 contest at the RAI concert hall in Naples, out of a record 18 entries.

Eurovision 1965

Eurovision Song Contest: Naples 1965

A narrow street of tall stone buildings with parked cars — Rue Mazarine, the street of L’Alcazar, in 2021. Chabe01 · CC BY-SA 4.0

62 rue Mazarine, 6th arrondissement · 1968

L’Alcazar

In 1968 the long former garage at 62 rue Mazarine became a cabaret, and it was soon a regular stop on Gainsbourg’s late nights.

Today it is a restaurant with bars and a stage: a dinner show from Thursday to Sunday, dinner with a live band early in the week.

Now a restaurant with bars and shows, open every day. Book the dinner show or a table on its own site.

Sources

5 bis rue de Verneuil · from 1969

Write on the wall.

The front wall stayed blank for years, until someone carved the first graffito into it. Gainsbourg did nothing to stop the writing: he took it as affection.

A low white wall covered in hand-written tags, a red flower painted on it — The wall at 5 bis rue de Verneuil in January 2006. Copyleft · CC BY-SA 3.0

2006
2009
2011
2019
2024

The wall in 2006. Write a line to add yours.

What you write stays on this screen. Nothing is sent or saved.

After his death fans kept writing, and street artists added portraits until colour spread across the whole front.

The wall’s story

Gainsbourg graffiti (Omniscience, 2017), publisher’s description at Librairie Mollat

Close view of a graffiti-covered front with a barred window and a door, a woman in blue passing — The barred window and door of 5 bis, December 2019. Jeanne Menjoulet · CC BY 2.0

The wall is on the street and always there to read. The house is seen by timed ticket only, booked online at the Maison Gainsbourg; slots sell out, so book well ahead.

Sources

Inside 5 bis · open since 20 September 2023

Two at a time.

The house has been open to visitors since 20 September 2023: about 30 minutes, two visitors at a time, with Charlotte Gainsbourg’s voice in your headphones. No photographs or video inside.

Living room

Kitchen

Wardrobe

Study

Bedroom

Room 1 of 5 · Living room, ground floor: Two pianos, a sofa, an old telephone, a cabinet of records and books, a briefcase, and a table of police badges.

No photographs may be taken inside, so the rooms are drawn, with what visitors describe.

The rooms

Sortir à Paris: Maison Gainsbourg in Paris (updated 28 January 2025)

In 1969 Jane Birkin moved in with Gainsbourg at 5 bis rue de Verneuil, a 135 m² duplex whose walls were painted black. He lived there until his death.

Their daughter Charlotte, born in 1971, took her first steps here.

Sources

Serge Gainsbourg in a pinstriped jacket beside Jane Birkin, who leans on a stone lion — Gainsbourg and Birkin in Rome in 1976, a year past this page’s main years: the nearest free photograph of the two together. Umberto Pizzi · Public domain

Maison Gainsbourg

Maison Gainsbourg: House & Museum

Rue de Verneuil, Paris

About 30 minutes inside 5 bis, two visitors at a time, guided by Charlotte Gainsbourg’s voice; then the museum across the street at number 14. No photographs inside the house. Tickets are released online in batches and sell out.

Book a slot

A black shopfront with MAISON GAINSBOURG in small capitals above the door, number 14 on the wall — Number 14 rue de Verneuil, the museum, shop and Gainsbarre, in 2024. McSyl · CC0

Across the street · about 40 m

Musée and Gainsbarre, number 14

Across the street at number 14, a long corridor tells his career in eight chapters, with almost 450 objects: manuscripts, artworks, photographs, clothes and jewellery.

Number 14 also holds the bookshop and the Gainsbarre, a café-restaurant, cocktail bar and piano bar.

Tickets come in two kinds, House & Museum or Museum only, and are sold online in limited numbers.

Museum by timed ticket, House & Museum or Museum only, sold online in limited numbers. The bookshop and the Gainsbarre are in the same building.

Sources

A quiet Left Bank street of pale stone buildings — Rue de Lille, the street of the Bistrot de Paris, in 2024. Chabe01 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Round the corner · about 220 m

Le Bistrot de Paris: table 46

Gainsbourg always sat at table 46, opposite the bar under the glass roof, and spiked a 500-franc note on the bill spike at the pass on his way out.

He ate his last meal here with Charlotte and his partner Bambou on 1 March 1991.

Raymond and Michel Oliver opened the Bistrot de Paris in 1965; there has been a restaurant at number 33 since 1848.

A working restaurant, round the corner from rue de Verneuil. Lunch Tuesday to Saturday 12 to 2.30pm, dinner 7 to 10.30pm.

Sources

Hôtel Montalembert

7th arrondissement, Paris

A five-star hotel of 50 rooms and suites at 3 rue de Montalembert, a few streets from the wall of 5 bis. Book direct for its current offers: 20% off three nights or 15% off two, breakfast included; early check-in and late checkout when rooms allow.

See rooms

Line 11 · 13 June 2024

Serge Gainsbourg

His first hit was about a metro ticket puncher, a real job: agents punched tickets at the platform entrance until magnetic tickets (1968) and ticket machines (1973) made it fade away.

A white metro corridor with ticket barriers at the far end — Inside Serge Gainsbourg station, Les Lilas, October 2025. Chabe01 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Line 11, Les Lilas

Serge Gainsbourg station

Line 11 was extended east on 13 June 2024, and its new station in Les Lilas is called Serge Gainsbourg.

The name comes from his song about Les Lilas. Jane Birkin backed it; a petition opposed it.

An ordinary metro station on line 11, one stop beyond Mairie des Lilas; any metro ticket takes you there.

Sources

A wide lawn under a blue sky with buildings beyond — The lawn of the Jardin Serge-Gainsbourg at Porte des Lilas, May 2021. Chabe01 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Avenue de la Porte-des-Lilas, 19th arrondissement

Jardin Serge-Gainsbourg

Opened in June 2010, the 1.4-hectare garden is built on a slab over the périphérique.

Its name honours Gainsbourg and his song Le Poinçonneur des Lilas. It is open 24 hours a day.

A public garden, open 24 hours, by Porte des Lilas metro and the T3 tram; step-free.

Sources

Montparnasse · March 1991

What people leave.

Gainsbourg died at rue de Verneuil on 2 March 1991, aged 62, and was buried here. His grave is regularly covered with bottles, cigarette ends, metro tickets and cabbages.

Leave what visitors leave.

A low stone grave covered in pot plants, flowers and small offerings — Gainsbourg’s grave at Montparnasse, February 2026. Antoine Rex · CC0

Open Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, Saturday from 8.30am, Sunday from 9am. The city publishes maps of the most-visited graves.

Sources

A grave planted with greenery and flowers among other tombs — The grave of Kate Barry and Jane Birkin at Montparnasse, September 2025. Chabe01 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Jane Birkin

Jane Birkin, who died on 16 July 2023, was buried at Montparnasse, as her daughter Kate Barry had been.

A classical church front with columns and steps — The front of Saint-Roch on rue Saint-Honoré. Mbzt · CC BY-SA 3.0

296 rue Saint-Honoré, 1st arrondissement · 24 July 2023

Église Saint-Roch

Jane Birkin’s funeral was held here on 24 July 2023, with a screen outside for the public. She had said goodbye to Kate Barry in the same church.

A working church on rue Saint-Honoré. Hours vary; check on the spot or with the parish.

Sources

Visit

Where it is now

13 places you can visit in Paris and at Les Lilas. The family flat on rue Chaptal is a private home: named, never mapped.

Pins mark public places; private homes are named but not pinned.

General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: building · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. The wall is on the street and always there to read. The house is seen by timed ticket only, booked online at the Maison Gainsbourg; slots sell out, so book well ahead.
General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: building · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. Museum by timed ticket, House & Museum or Museum only, sold online in limited numbers. The bookshop and the Gainsbarre are in the same building.
General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: building · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. A working restaurant, round the corner from rue de Verneuil. Lunch Tuesday to Saturday 12 to 2.30pm, dinner 7 to 10.30pm.
General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: building · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. Now a restaurant with bars and shows, open every day. Book the dinner show or a table on its own site.
General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: area · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. Open Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, Saturday from 8.30am, Sunday from 9am. The city publishes maps of the most-visited graves.

The wall of 5 bis in December 2019, colour across the whole front. Jeanne Menjoulet · CC BY 2.0
5 bis rue de Verneuil, 7th arrondissement
Maison Gainsbourg, 5 bis
In 1969 Jane Birkin moved in with Gainsbourg at 5 bis rue de Verneuil, a 135 m² duplex whose walls were painted black. He lived there until his death.
The wall is on the street and always there to read. The house is seen by timed ticket only, booked online at the Maison Gainsbourg; slots sell out, so book well ahead.
Sources
Number 14 rue de Verneuil, the museum, shop and Gainsbarre, in 2024. McSyl · CC0
14 rue de Verneuil, 7th arrondissement
Musée and Gainsbarre, number 14
Across the street at number 14, a long corridor tells his career in eight chapters, with almost 450 objects: manuscripts, artworks, photographs, clothes and jewellery.
Museum by timed ticket, House & Museum or Museum only, sold online in limited numbers. The bookshop and the Gainsbarre are in the same building.
Sources
Rue de Lille, the street of the Bistrot de Paris, in 2024. Chabe01 · CC BY-SA 4.0
33 rue de Lille, 7th arrondissement
Le Bistrot de Paris
Gainsbourg always sat at table 46, opposite the bar under the glass roof, and spiked a 500-franc note on the bill spike at the pass on his way out.
A working restaurant, round the corner from rue de Verneuil. Lunch Tuesday to Saturday 12 to 2.30pm, dinner 7 to 10.30pm.
Sources
Rue Mazarine, the street of L’Alcazar, in 2021. Chabe01 · CC BY-SA 4.0
62 rue Mazarine, 6th arrondissement
L’Alcazar
In 1968 the long former garage at 62 rue Mazarine became a cabaret, and it was soon a regular stop on Gainsbourg’s late nights.
Now a restaurant with bars and shows, open every day. Book the dinner show or a table on its own site.
Sources
Gainsbourg’s grave at Montparnasse, February 2026. Antoine Rex · CC0
3 boulevard Edgar-Quinet, 14th arrondissement
Cimetière du Montparnasse
Gainsbourg died at rue de Verneuil on 2 March 1991, aged 62, and was buried here. His grave is regularly covered with bottles, cigarette ends, metro tickets and cabbages.
Open Monday to Friday 8am to 6pm, Saturday from 8.30am, Sunday from 9am. The city publishes maps of the most-visited graves.
Sources

Stay

A room near the wall.

The Hôtel Montalembert, a few streets from 5 bis.

Hôtel Montalembert

7th arrondissement, Paris

A five-star hotel of 50 rooms and suites at 3 rue de Montalembert, a few streets from the wall of 5 bis. Book direct for its current offers: 20% off three nights or 15% off two, breakfast included; early check-in and late checkout when rooms allow.

See rooms

Go in

The house, the studios and Pigalle.

Timed tickets for the house and museum, the Cité’s Wednesday open studios, and music walks on the marketplace.

Maison Gainsbourg

Maison Gainsbourg: House & Museum

Rue de Verneuil, Paris

About 30 minutes inside 5 bis, two visitors at a time, guided by Charlotte Gainsbourg’s voice; then the museum across the street at number 14. No photographs inside the house. Tickets are released online in batches and sell out.

Book a slot

Cité internationale des arts

Open studios at the Cité internationale des arts

The Marais, Paris

The building where Gainsbourg had his fifth-floor studio in 1966 opens its studios to the public every Wednesday, 6 to 9pm, with exhibitions in the gallery.

See the programme

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Paris music and Montmartre walks

Paris

Live marketplace results for music and cabaret walks round Pigalle and Montmartre. Check each itinerary for the boulevard de Clichy and rue des Martyrs.

Live marketplace results · itineraries change

Compare tours

What’s on

An evening of his songs.

A Gainsbourg evening at the Sunside, by Châtelet.

Checking current event dates…

Take it home

Two books, four records.

A biography, Jane Birkin’s diaries, and four records from 1958 to 1971. Our own store holds no original poster for him.

Bookshop.org UK · Ad / affiliate

Serge Gainsbourg: A Fistful of Gitanes

Sylvie Simmons

Sylvie Simmons’s biography of him, published by Da Capo in 2002.

Find the book

Bookshop.org UK · Ad / affiliate

Every place and moment behind this page, with sources.

Search all places and Moments Current state Sort

14 of 14 places · 17 of 17 Moments

Maison Gainsbourg, 5 bis
5 bis rue de Verneuil, 7th arrondissement
- 5 bis
  Jane Birkin moves in with him at 5 bis rue de Verneuil.
- First steps
  Charlotte, born in 1971, takes her first steps in the house.
- The first graffito
  After years blank, the wall gets its first carved graffito; he lets the writing stay.
- Two at a time
  The house opens to visitors.
Musée and Gainsbarre, number 14
14 rue de Verneuil, 7th arrondissement
- Number 14
  The museum, bookshop and Gainsbarre open across the street.
Le Bistrot de Paris
33 rue de Lille, 7th arrondissement
- Table 46
  His table at the Bistrot de Paris, opposite the bar under the glass roof.
L’Alcazar
62 rue Mazarine, 6th arrondissement
- Late nights
  L’Alcazar opens as a cabaret and joins his late-night round.
Hôtel-Dieu
Parvis Notre-Dame, Île de la Cité, 4th arrondissement
- Lucien
  Lucien Ginsburg and his twin sister Liliane are born at the Hôtel-Dieu.
The family flat, rue Chaptal
Rue Chaptal, 9th arrondissement: a private building
- First scales
  Lucien plays his first scales on the family piano in rue Chaptal.
Madame Arthur
Rue des Martyrs, Pigalle, 18th arrondissement
- Julien Grix
  Pianist at Madame Arthur, he lodges his first songs as Julien Grix.
Milord l’Arsouille
5 rue de Beaujolais, beside the Palais-Royal, 1st arrondissement
- Serge Gainsbourg
  At Milord l’Arsouille he sings his own songs and takes the name Serge Gainsbourg.
Les Trois Baudets
64 boulevard de Clichy, 18th arrondissement
- Le Poinçonneur des Lilas
  He sings Le Poinçonneur des Lilas at the Trois Baudets.
Cité internationale des arts
18 rue de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, 4th arrondissement
- Fifth floor
  A studio flat on the fifth floor of the Cité internationale des arts.
Serge Gainsbourg station
Line 11, Les Lilas
- Serge Gainsbourg
  The new line 11 station in Les Lilas opens under his name.
Jardin Serge-Gainsbourg
Avenue de la Porte-des-Lilas, 19th arrondissement
- A garden
  The Jardin Serge-Gainsbourg opens over the périphérique.
Cimetière du Montparnasse
3 boulevard Edgar-Quinet, 14th arrondissement
- Montparnasse
  He dies at rue de Verneuil and is buried at Montparnasse.
Église Saint-Roch
296 rue Saint-Honoré, 1st arrondissement
- Saint-Roch
  Jane Birkin’s funeral at Saint-Roch.

Serge Gainsbourg