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Jude Law in a dark jacket, looking straight at the camera
Jude Law in May 2016, the year The Young Pope was first shown. Frederic Auerbach · CC BY-SA 3.0
Jude LawPius XIII · 2016
John Malkovich seated in a dark suit against a red curtain, chin on his hand
John Malkovich in Vienna in January 2015, four years before The New Pope; no free photograph of him from 2016–2019 has been found. Elena Ringo · CC BY 4.0
John MalkovichJohn Paul III · 2015
Paolo Sorrentino smiling, grey hair, dark jacket, trees behind
Paolo Sorrentino at the Venice Film Festival in September 2018, during the preparation of The New Pope. Pietro Luca Cassarino · CC BY-SA 4.0
Paolo SorrentinoCreator · 2018

Rome · Venice · 2015–2019 · Paolo Sorrentino

The Young Popeand The New Pope

The series could not film in the Vatican, so Sorrentino built one out of Italy. Burn a ballot and the smoke will tell you where.

Seven ballots in the stove. Burn one.

Medals: Jude Law (Frederic Auerbach, CC BY-SA 3.0) · John Malkovich (Elena Ringo, CC BY 4.0) · Paolo Sorrentino (Pietro Luca Cassarino, CC BY-SA 4.0)

Fumata · seven ballots, one stove

Burn a ballot.

Location filming is forbidden inside the Vatican, so The Young Pope made its own. Each slip below names a room you see on screen. Put it in the stove: black smoke means it was not filmed there, and the white smoke that follows names the place that played it.

Where we read it

Seven ballots in the stove. Burn one.

0 of 7 burned

A thin chimney on a Vatican roof beside a statue, with white smoke rising into a blue sky
The real chimney, 1963: white smoke over the Sistine Chapel for the election of Paul VI. David Lees · Public domain

The stove is cold. Pick a ballot.

San Giorgio Maggiore

A real conclave.

Between December 1799 and 14 March 1800, with Rome occupied by Napoleon’s troops, the cardinals met here, on the first floor of the Benedictine monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, and elected Pius VII.

It was a real conclave, held on an island in the lagoon.

Vaporetto line 2 to San Giorgio, across the basin from San Zaccaria. The Cini Foundation shows the monastery and its refectory on guided tours; check days and book.

Where we read it
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A long pink monastery front on the water, a bell tower behind
The former monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore, now the Fondazione Giorgio Cini, 2013. Wolfgang Moroder · CC BY 3.0
Looking up a white and gold staircase hall to a domed ceiling
The grand staircase of Palazzo Braschi, 2007. Lalupa · CC BY-SA 3.0

Piazza Navona to Piazza Venezia

Rome on foot.

Palazzo Braschi

The papal apartments and Pius XIII’s bathroom were built on one floor of Palazzo Braschi.

Its baroque grand staircase was the set for the pope’s investiture, and Pius XIII’s strange meeting with the Italian Prime Minister was shot here.

Cosimo Morelli designed the palace from 1790 for Luigi Braschi Onesti, nephew of Pope Pius VI. It houses the Museo di Roma.

The museum opens Tuesday to Sunday, 10am to 7pm.

Now the Museo di Roma, between Piazza Navona and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. The grand staircase is inside the museum.

Where we read it
A white marble fountain group rising from a green pool among palms
The fountain in the great courtyard garden of Palazzo Venezia, 2007. Lalupa · CC BY-SA 3.0

Palazzo Venezia

The Apostolic Palace was re-created in Palazzo Venezia for The Young Pope.

In The New Pope, Cardinal Spalletta advises John Paul III by the fountain in the courtyard, and the cardinals cross the Sala Regia and pass the monumental staircase on their way to the Sistine Chapel.

Cardinal Pietro Barbo built it in the 1450s and reigned as Pope Paul II from 1464; it became a papal residence in 1469.

The museum opens every day, 9.30am to 7.30pm; the Giardino Grande is free to enter.

A national museum on Piazza Venezia. The garden with the fountain is free to walk into.

Where we read it

Orto Botanico · the Janiculum

The Fountain of the Eleven Spouts

In episode three of The New Pope the prelates climb this staircase on their way to the Sistine Chapel. Open the spouts and send them up.

Eleven spouts, all dry.

Two stone staircases rising either side of a green water cascade under trees
The double staircase with its cascade in the Orto Botanico, 2002. Lalupa · Public domain
Tall green bamboo stems in dappled light
The bamboo grove in the Orto Botanico, 2014. Lalupa · CC BY-SA 3.0

Largo Cristina di Svezia 23A, Trastevere, Rome

Orto Botanico di Roma

The botanical garden stood in for the Vatican Gardens. In The New Pope, cardinals meet in its bamboo forest to weigh up the next pope.

In episode three of The New Pope, the prelates climb the Fountain of the Eleven Spouts on their way to the Sistine Chapel.

The garden covers 12 hectares on the Janiculum slopes above Palazzo Corsini, and has been on this site since 1883.

A ticketed garden at the foot of the Janiculum, entered from Largo Cristina di Svezia beside Palazzo Corsini.

Where we read it
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The floodlit front of St Mark’s Basilica across an almost empty square at night
Piazza San Marco at night, November 2022. Meri Valenti (TCI) · CC BY 4.0

January 2016 · nights in St Mark’s Square

Venice at night.

The Young Pope ends here. In Venice Pius XIII shows his face to the faithful for the first time, and collapses mid-speech. The New Pope picks up with him in a coma.

Where we read it
The speech
The basilica’s domes and arches mirrored in a thin sheet of water at night
St Mark’s Basilica reflected in high water on the square, 2020. IvanPhoto23 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Piazza San Marco, Venice

Piazza San Marco

At the end of The Young Pope, Pius XIII speaks to the crowds in Piazza San Marco.

Filming came to Venice in January 2016 for night shoots in St Mark’s Square and Campo San Vio, both sealed off.

The New Pope begins after Venice: Pius XIII collapsed there while speaking to the faithful, to whom he had at last shown his face, and lies in a coma.

It is the principal public square of Venice, with St Mark’s Basilica at its eastern end.

Venice’s main square. Come late at night or very early to see it nearly empty.

Where we read it
The ballroom
A pale stone Venetian palace front with a tall brick bell tower beside it
Palazzo Labia on Campo San Geremia, May 2015. Didier Descouens · CC BY-SA 4.0

Campo San Geremia, Cannaregio, Venice

Palazzo Labia

The Italian Prime Minister holds a press conference in Palazzo Labia’s ballroom, frescoed by Tiepolo.

Tiepolo painted the ballroom with the story of Antony and Cleopatra in 1746–47.

The ballroom and some state rooms are open to view by appointment.

See the front from Campo San Geremia or the Cannaregio Canal. The ballroom is shown by appointment only.

Where we read it
The festival
A white modernist festival building on a wide paved square under a bright sky
The Palazzo del Cinema on the Lido, home of the Venice Film Festival, 2022. Derbrauni · CC BY 4.0

Lungomare Guglielmo Marconi, Lido di Venezia

The Lido and the Excelsior

In The New Pope, Pius XIII walks through a group of women on the Lido beach in white swimming trunks, the Hotel Excelsior behind him.

Both series had their world premiere at the Venice Film Festival on the Lido: The Young Pope on 3 September 2016, the first television series in the festival’s programme, and The New Pope on 1 September 2019.

Giovanni Sardi designed the Excelsior, which opened in 1908. The first Venice film festival opened from its terrace in 1932, before the Palazzo del Cinema was inaugurated in 1937.

Vaporetto to Lido Santa Maria Elisabetta, then walk or take the bus down the Lungomare. The Palazzo del Cinema is a few minutes along.

Where we read it
Hotel Excelsior Venice Lido

Hotel Excelsior Venice Lido

Lido di Venezia

The 1908 hotel behind Pius XIII’s walk in white trunks, on the Lido beach along the Lungomare from the Palazzo del Cinema. It has the only private beach in Venice, with 300 cabanas.

See the hotel

The coast and the Majella

Withdrawal.

Sorrentino said The New Pope is about two popes who want to be forgotten. Two places for getting away: a beach where an old photograph turns up, and a hermitage where the future Celestine V, the pope who resigned in 1294, once lived.

Where we read it
A small boat drawn up on a dark sand beach, the sea behind, a palm frond in front
The beach at Passoscuro from the fishermen’s village, 2019. AleM20 · CC BY-SA 4.0

Passoscuro, Fiumicino, on the coast west of Rome

Passoscuro beach

On the beach at Passoscuro, Esther finds a photograph of Pius XIII; the same stretch holds a scene with Cardinal Voiello.

Italy for Movies sets the meeting of Sister Mary and Cardinal Voiello on the Passoscuro dunes.

Fellini shot the last scene of La Dolce Vita on this beach.

It is the northernmost bathing spot in Fiumicino, with fairly unspoilt beaches and dunes.

A public beach with dunes to the north, on the coast beyond Fiumicino.

Where we read it
Stone hermitage buildings set against an overhanging limestone cliff
The Hermitage of Santo Spirito a Majella, built into the rock, 2024. Syrio · CC BY-SA 4.0

Strada Comunale Santo Spirito, Roccamorice, Pescara

Hermitage of Santo Spirito a Majella

In The New Pope, Cardinal Voiello, out of favour, takes refuge at the Hermitage of Santo Spirito and spends his days gardening.

Pietro da Morrone, later Pope Celestine V, lived here in 1246 and renovated it. The oldest part of the church is carved into the rock.

Celestine V resigned the papacy on 13 December 1294, five months and eight days after he was elected.

A mountain hermitage above Roccamorice, on the Majella. Drive up from the village; the last stretch is a steep ramp from the car park.

Where we read it
Two matching villas behind a garden of clipped box hedges around a fountain
The twin casini and box parterre at Villa Lante, Bagnaia, 2019. Daderot · Public domain

Via Jacopo Barozzi 71, Bagnaia, Viterbo

Villa Lante

Villa Lante was one of the gardens used for the Vatican Gardens in The Young Pope.

A state-run garden in Bagnaia, just outside Viterbo, north of Rome.

Where we read it
A baroque church with a ribbed dome above the brick ruins of the Forum
Santi Luca e Martina seen from the Roman Forum, 2013. Jebulon · CC0

Via della Curia, above the Roman Forum

Santi Luca e Martina

The church stood in for the inside of St Peter’s Basilica.

Look at it from Via della Curia or from inside the Forum. Check before you go if you want to see inside.

Where we read it

The people

Who made it.

  • Jude Law smiling, in a grey striped jacket
    Jude Law in San Diego in July 2018, between the two series. Gage Skidmore · CC BY-SA 2.0
    Jude LawPius XIII, Lenny Belardo · 2018
  • John Malkovich seated in a dark suit against a red curtain, chin on his hand
    John Malkovich in Vienna in January 2015, four years before The New Pope; no free photograph of him from 2016–2019 has been found. Elena Ringo · CC BY 4.0
    John MalkovichJohn Paul III, Sir John Brannox · 2015
  • Paolo Sorrentino smiling, grey hair, dark jacket, trees behind
    Paolo Sorrentino at the Venice Film Festival in September 2018, during the preparation of The New Pope. Pietro Luca Cassarino · CC BY-SA 4.0
    Paolo SorrentinoCreator and director · Venice, 2018

Paolo Sorrentino created and directed both series. Luca Bigazzi shot The Young Pope and Ludovica Ferrario designed it. Around Jude Law are Diane Keaton as Sister Mary, Silvio Orlando as Cardinal Voiello, Javier Cámara as Monsignor Gutierrez, James Cromwell as Cardinal Spencer, Cécile de France as Sofia Dubois and Ludivine Sagnier as Esther. John Malkovich joined for The New Pope, which runs to nine episodes.

  1. Aug 2015Filming starts; it runs for seven months
  2. €40mPut up by Sky, Canal+ and HBO
  3. 3 Sep 2016The Young Pope premieres at Venice
  4. 1 Sep 2019The New Pope premieres at Venice
Where we read it
  • Cast, crew, the seven-month shoot from August 2015, the €40 million from Sky, Canal+ and HBO, and the Venice premiere on 3 September 2016.

  • Malkovich as John Paul III, nine episodes and the Venice premiere on 1 September 2019.

Go there.

Where it is now

15 places you can visit: 7 in Rome, 3 on its edges and beyond, 4 in Venice and 1 in the mountains of Abruzzo.

Pins mark public places; private homes are named but not pinned.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: building · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. Now the Museo di Roma, between Piazza Navona and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. The grand staircase is inside the museum.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: building · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. A national museum on Piazza Venezia. The garden with the fountain is free to walk into.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: building · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. Look at it from Via della Curia or from inside the Forum. Check before you go if you want to see inside.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: building · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. Up the Spanish Steps and left along Viale della Trinità dei Monti. The gardens are seen on a guided tour; book ahead.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: building · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. A working church on the Aventine. Go quietly, or come for Sunday Vespers.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: site · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. A ticketed garden at the foot of the Janiculum, entered from Largo Cristina di Svezia beside Palazzo Corsini.

  • General reference · Public access · Coordinate precision: site · Not an exact scene or camera position; not a visitor route. A free public park. Walk in from Via di San Pancrazio; the Casino del Bel Respiro stands above its formal garden.

  1. The ochre front of Palazzo Braschi with a red museum banner over the door
    Palazzo Braschi, home of the Museo di Roma, in 2006. Achille83 · Public domain

    Piazza di San Pantaleo 10, Rome

    Palazzo Braschi

    The papal apartments and Pius XIII’s bathroom were built on one floor of Palazzo Braschi.

    Now the Museo di Roma, between Piazza Navona and Corso Vittorio Emanuele II. The grand staircase is inside the museum.

    Where we read it
  2. A white marble fountain group rising from a green pool among palms
    The fountain in the great courtyard garden of Palazzo Venezia, 2007. Lalupa · CC BY-SA 3.0

    Piazza Venezia 3, Rome

    Palazzo Venezia

    The Apostolic Palace was re-created in Palazzo Venezia for The Young Pope.

    A national museum on Piazza Venezia. The garden with the fountain is free to walk into.

    Where we read it
  3. A baroque church with a ribbed dome above the brick ruins of the Forum
    Santi Luca e Martina seen from the Roman Forum, 2013. Jebulon · CC0

    Via della Curia, above the Roman Forum

    Santi Luca e Martina

    The church stood in for the inside of St Peter’s Basilica.

    Look at it from Via della Curia or from inside the Forum. Check before you go if you want to see inside.

    Where we read it
  4. A white villa with two towers among umbrella pines
    Villa Medici on the Pincian Hill, September 2016. José Luiz · CC BY-SA 4.0

    Viale della Trinità dei Monti 1, Rome

    Villa Medici

    Villa Medici is one of the gardens that played the Vatican Gardens in The Young Pope.

    Up the Spanish Steps and left along Viale della Trinità dei Monti. The gardens are seen on a guided tour; book ahead.

    Where we read it
  5. A brick Romanesque-style church front behind an arcaded courtyard with a lawn
    Sant’Anselmo on the Aventine, 2022. Merulana · CC BY-SA 4.0

    Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta 5, Aventine Hill, Rome

    Sant’Anselmo all’Aventino

    The confession scenes of The Young Pope were shot inside the church.

    A working church on the Aventine. Go quietly, or come for Sunday Vespers.

    Where we read it
  6. Two stone staircases rising either side of a green water cascade under trees
    The double staircase with its cascade in the Orto Botanico, 2002. Lalupa · Public domain

    Largo Cristina di Svezia 23A, Trastevere, Rome

    Orto Botanico di Roma

    The botanical garden stood in for the Vatican Gardens. In The New Pope, cardinals meet in its bamboo forest to weigh up the next pope.

    A ticketed garden at the foot of the Janiculum, entered from Largo Cristina di Svezia beside Palazzo Corsini.

    Where we read it
  7. A white seventeenth-century villa above a formal garden terrace
    The Casino del Bel Respiro in Villa Doria Pamphilj, 2010. LPLT · CC BY-SA 4.0

    Via di San Pancrazio, Monteverde, Rome

    Villa Doria Pamphilj

    The villa stood in for the papal summer residence at Castel Gandolfo, where Pius XIII walks with Sister Mary.

    A free public park. Walk in from Via di San Pancrazio; the Casino del Bel Respiro stands above its formal garden.

    Where we read it

Stay

By the sea.

The hotel on the Lido behind Pius XIII’s walk on the beach.

Hotel Excelsior Venice Lido

Hotel Excelsior Venice Lido

Lido di Venezia

The 1908 hotel behind Pius XIII’s walk in white trunks, on the Lido beach along the Lungomare from the Palazzo del Cinema. It has the only private beach in Venice, with 300 cabanas.

See the hotel

Go there

Studios, palaces, an island.

Tours of Cinecittà, Rome’s palaces and San Giorgio Maggiore.

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What’s on

Every day but Tuesday.

A guided walk through the gardens that played the Vatican Gardens.

Checking current event dates…

Take it home

The soundtracks.

Both series’ soundtracks, on CD and digital.

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The Young Pope (Original Soundtrack)

Lele Marchitelli and others · 2 × CD, 2016

The soundtrack of the first series on two CDs, released in Italy in December 2016.

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The New Pope (Original Soundtrack from the HBO Series)

Lele Marchitelli and others · Digital, 2020

The second series’ soundtrack, released in February 2020.

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Dates, prices, rooms and stock change: confirm with the provider before you travel or buy. A stay or tour is described as a filming location only where the card says so.

Conclave register

Every place and moment behind this page, with sources.

15 of 15 places · 15 of 15 Moments

  • Cinecittà

    Via Tuscolana 1055, Rome

    • The Sistine Chapel

      The Sistine Chapel is rebuilt at full scale, all but its height, on a Cinecittà stage.

  • Palazzo Braschi

    Piazza di San Pantaleo 10, Rome

    • The investiture

      Pius XIII’s investiture is staged on the grand staircase of Palazzo Braschi.

  • Palazzo Venezia

    Piazza Venezia 3, Rome

    • The fountain

      Cardinal Spalletta advises the new pope beside the courtyard fountain.

  • Santi Luca e Martina

    Via della Curia, above the Roman Forum

    • Inside St Peter’s

      Santi Luca e Martina plays the inside of St Peter’s Basilica.

  • Villa Medici

    Viale della Trinità dei Monti 1, Rome

    • The Vatican Gardens

      The gardens of Villa Medici play the Vatican Gardens.

  • Sant’Anselmo all’Aventino

    Piazza dei Cavalieri di Malta 5, Aventine Hill, Rome

    • The confessional

      The confession scenes are shot inside Sant’Anselmo.

  • Orto Botanico di Roma

    Largo Cristina di Svezia 23A, Trastevere, Rome

    • The bamboo forest

      Cardinals meet in the bamboo to weigh up the next pope, and later climb the Fountain of the Eleven Spouts.

  • Villa Doria Pamphilj

    Via di San Pancrazio, Monteverde, Rome

    • Castel Gandolfo

      Pius XIII and Sister Mary walk in the gardens of the summer residence.

  • Passoscuro beach

    Passoscuro, Fiumicino, on the coast west of Rome

    • The photograph

      Esther finds a photograph of Pius XIII on the beach.

  • Villa Lante

    Via Jacopo Barozzi 71, Bagnaia, Viterbo

    • More of the gardens

      Villa Lante’s garden is another piece of the Vatican Gardens.

  • Piazza San Marco

    Piazza San Marco, Venice

    • The speech

      Pius XIII speaks to the crowds in Piazza San Marco.

  • San Giorgio Maggiore

    Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore, Venice

    • The dance

      Young nuns dance in the Palladian refectory as The New Pope opens.

  • Palazzo Labia

    Campo San Geremia, Cannaregio, Venice

    • The press conference

      The Prime Minister holds a press conference under Tiepolo’s frescoes.

  • The Lido and the Excelsior

    Lungomare Guglielmo Marconi, Lido di Venezia

    • White trunks

      Pius XIII walks the Lido beach in white swimming trunks.

  • Hermitage of Santo Spirito a Majella

    Strada Comunale Santo Spirito, Roccamorice, Pescara

    • Voiello’s refuge

      Voiello, out of favour, gardens at a mountain hermitage.

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